Ok, so after my mile-long post yesterday I realized that I STILL managed to leave something out! So, here I am, back again, to finish what I started yesterday. However, I promise to keep this one short and sweet. What I had brought up but later forgot all about was ironing. It's something we all hate to do but sometimes it just must be done...or so you thought.
The key thing to remember is-items will dry in the state they are in. Think about it, if you put a load of clothes in the dryer, start it up, and walk away for a couple hours-what do they look like when you get back? They're all wrinkled, right? Well that's your problem...you left. Like a small child, laundry must not be left unattended. If you've got something in there you do not want wrinkled or to have to iron, then don't start that machine unless you are going to be right there the second it stops running. The main factor is to take those items out and put them up while they are still warm. It's the same for clothes as it is bedding. With clothes it's really up to your discretion, I always gauge my temperature and time by what I'm putting in and how much of it there is. Now not everyone has a separate dial for temperature, but if you do-USE IT!!! The temperature is just as important as the timing on a dryer cycle. Like I said in the previous blog post, I can't ever remember seeing any tag with the words "Tumble Dry High Heat", therefore, I never use High unless it's on my towels-because that is not a place you want any moisture sticking around. And for all other dryer loads, Medium, Low, or No Heat are the way to go-and even that should be based on what it is.
The 2nd most important thing to remember when drying is how long you leave it in there. Like I said yesterday, leaving fabric in the dryer too long is like leaving cookies in the oven til they turn black...it's just cruel. Also, another benefit to not over-drying your fabrics is it cuts out the need for ironing. I swear! Something most people don't know, but I'm trying my best to spread the word on, is that it's actually better to take items out when they are still the slightest bit damp. And when I say slightest I mean it-you should not be able to wring water out! Now this of course, isn't for everything-clothing I say go ahead and leave in til it's done, but as I've said before, take out immediately and put away (fold/hang). However, when it comes to things like bedding, my clients (and me) HATE, and yes I do mean that in the harshest way possible, ironing. Let's face it-ironing sucks...it's hot, it takes forever, you've gotta have enough space to even do it, if you're a klutz like me you get burned every single time, and that steam-bye bye hairdo!!! And with items as large as what you dress your bed with, sheets, duvet covers, pillow shams, bedskirts-who's got the time? Most of my companies have even started printing this tip as part of the care instructions on all of their packaging: Remove items from dryer while still damp and smooth on bed. This is another reason for ensuring that the garment is just the slightest bit damp, but think about it-it's all warm and a little damp, take that sheet or duvet cover and go stretch it out across your bed, smooth it over with your hand, and just walk away. You come back in about 15-30 minutes and what will you find? A cool, dry, nice and wrinkle-free piece of fabric. How is it gonna wrinkle if it's laying flat on the bed? It's not-that's the brilliance. Same goes for dress clothes-take them out of the dryer when they're still warm and go immediately hang them up-they will stay nice and pressed and wrinkle free until you put them on-haha sorry, nothing I can do about how they look once you get them on!
So there's my secret tip to why my bed and my clothing always look so nice and pressed-even though my iron hasn't left the cabinet in over a year. You just have to time it properly-just don't start a load of laundry, whether it's bedding or clothes, unless you are going to be there to tend to it as soon as it's done. Don't let it sit in the dryer afterwards getting all cold and wrinkly. And just remember, if you do, for any reason, have to use the iron-please mind your temperatures on that too! There is no faster way to scorch something than to use a hotter iron than necessary-it's also a great way to break down those fibers and wear out the fabric faster; cutting down how long you get to use it. Another great thing to remember when ironing is will moisture help here? With items like cotton, polyester, and linen, a little steam or spritz of water may help your ironing go faster. However, things made of silk, for instance, may spot if water or steam is used-so proceed with caution.
Hope this helps alleviate your ironing woes, maybe even eliminate them altogether!
Friday, September 7, 2012
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Home vs Dry Cleaning...Who Wins?
First I want to say I'm sorry for abandoning you for so long. When writing a blog of this nature it's hard to come up with topics you think will keep people interested and coming back for more, but at the same time it's important to remember that just constant communication is key-so from here on out, I will do my best to stay in better touch.
Today's topic is something I have to discuss with my clients every single day, then go home and discuss with everyone who lives in my house and gets things dirty-if I could teach the dogs to clean up after themselves I'd be set! A huge problem I run into with my clients is their fear of messing up their nice things. They come in, they buy gorgeous bedding that should last them 10 years, if not longer, then the dog jumps on the bed and leaves muddy footprints behind, or their young one has an accident, or the hubby is working late and leaves ink stains on the sheets...what do you do now?!? Spray a stain fighter on it? Run it under hot water? Put it in the machine? Take it to the cleaners? Throw it out? And what do you do when it's just time for a regular cleaning? If it's really expensive or a really scary stain most immediately choose the "I'll just take it to the cleaners and let them deal with it..." option; but is that always best?
Ok, let's talk. When it comes to regular cleaning, my best advice is to follow the instructions. Every company is required to include a set of instructions on how to properly care for your stuff-whether it's bedding, clothing, curtains...you name it-you'll find a tag sewn in somewhere. Now here's the problem, sometimes it's not written out in plain English, sometimes you just get those symbols that look like something you'd see on a report about crop circles...and what do you do then? Well common sense comes in handy here. With today's technology and love for chemicals, you do not (let me repeat, NOT!) need to use hot water on your linens just to get them clean!!! #1 Half the detergents out there now brag about being "cold water activated!!!" #2 Most of the detergents out there now have enough chemicals in them to kill any germ that dare hang out on your fabrics #3 Your machine will do a very thorough job of washing and rinsing your garments better than any hand-washing could do. Secondly, please don't ever (EVER!) use bleach on your linens. Unless there's a sterilization situation going on, avoid bleach at all costs. It's just not necessary-see 3 points above. Bleach can be very harmful to fabrics, in ways other than just discoloration; it literally breaks down and weakens the fibers...ever wonder where those tiny little holes come from when you've never seen a moth inside your closet?? Or why your sheets are tearing up when you haven't had them but a year or two...now ya know. When it comes to regular washing, it's the same when it comes to eating, everything in moderation...Medium to Low temperatures (in BOTH machines!!!but we'll get to drying later), no need for a "heavy duty" cycle, regular washing will be just fine, and please-oh-please vary the amount of detergent you use based on how much you are actually putting in the machine! This is a HUGE mistake most people are making. If you just go by the amount the little cup tells you-you're already overusing product. Think about it-those companies want you to blow through their products faster so you're having to repurchase sooner. Another downside to overusing detergent is that your fabrics will actually come out dirtier than they were when they went in-the detergent will not only not fully rinse out, when overused, but it will also cling to all the dirt in the water like a magnet. So please be careful when putting detergents and additives into your machine before you run it. If you're only washing one or two things, just use a small cap full or maybe a tablespoon of cleanser.
Now, as far as drying goes-this is where most mistakes occur. If you're like me, well-how I used to be before it became my livelihood, you never touch the temperature dial on your dryer. It stays on "regular" or "high heat" 24/7/365. That is what is going to kill your fabrics. Over drying is basically the laundry equivalent to leaving a pan of cookies in the oven until they turn black; only your sheets won't change colors. When you leave your fabrics in the dryer too long they get split-ends...no that's not just a term used for hair. Over drying causes your fabrics, at a microscopic level, to become brittle and break off. And when this occurs enough that's where tears and holes appear, that's why pilling starts. For those of you unfamiliar with that term, think about your sheets, are there little fuzz balls all over them? That is considered "pilling", when the fibers break off and start to curl, forming those little balls. You see it a lot in sweaters in areas with the most wear-think under the arms. I cannot honestly think of one time I've ever seen the words "Tumble dry high heat" on the tag on any piece of clothing or bedding I've ever owned. What does it always say? Either "Medium heat" or "Low heat" and those words that few understand "Iron if needed"...well why wouldn't ironing be needed?! I'm about to tell you, just let me finish the dryer talk first. It's best to follow the instructions on the tag when it comes to temperature, but if you're really nervous and just too unsure, Low will always be your safest bet. Now if you are worried about the item shrinking, which you should, the even safer bet is to skip the dryer altogether and either lay the item flat or hang it, depending on the size. If it's a piece of clothing judging by weight, size, and shape, sometimes laying it flat on the machine is best and sometimes putting it on a hanger and hanging it on your showercurtain rod is best. For bedding the items are usually much larger and call for a little more creativity. Again, use your best judgement. If you've got a decent sized laundry room and side-by-side machines, stretch it out over the top of the machines to air-dry, or create a fort out of kitchen chairs and stretch it out among those, or once again, head into the bathroom and drape it over your showercurtain rod. Some people choose to air items outside when it comes to drying, I, however, am too nervous and see everything that could go wrong with that picture-my dogs could get a little too happy and grab the item and play tug-of-war with it, I am immediately able to visualize any and all allergens that are floating in the air and being drawn to this piece of fabric like some sort of super magnet, and then there's always birds flying overhead...enough said.
Stains are the one thing that scares people the most. There's always that immediate feeling of "Now it's ruined!" But that's not always the case. The #1 thing to remember is treat it as soon as humanly possible. The less time that stain has to set in, the better. Another thing to consider is the size of the stain; is this something that requires washing the entire piece or will a simple spot-treating do the trick? That is your call. But the instructions are pretty much the same. Start off by wetting the stained area and then add a stain-fighting agent directly onto the spot and work it into the stain; depending on how quickly you're able to treat, you may start seeing results here. Now don't rinse it, just let the item sit with the cleaner on the spot and let it sit-depending on severity for I'd say 5-15 minutes. After letting it sit, if you're going to wash the entire piece, this is when you'd put it in the washer and wash as normal. However, if the whole garment does not require washing, just rinse the affected area and let air dry. Now you may be asking yourself, "That's it?!" But for me, it is. Those are the only steps I have to take to get my stains out. If the same isn't for you; you might want to take a look at what products you are using. Now my arsenal of cleaning products may be a little different than yours, but I would highly recommend looking into getting yourself the items that I use. First and foremost, I use Leblanc Linen Wash on just about everything. Not only is it a fabulous detergent, but it is an incredible stain remover. For right there, on the spot, as soon as it happens stains, Leblanc always manages to do the trick...including my latest incident where I was going to take a bite of chocolate ice cream just as my dog jumped up on the couch to ask for a bite (which she didn't get), causing me to drop it down the front of my brand new white shirt (the reason she didn't get a bite!). I just treated it immediately and without even having to throw it in the washer, the stain came out. For older stains, as well as items that can't be thrown in the washing machine, when Leblanc doesn't quite cut it, I also use a product called SUDS. SUDS comes in a consistency I can only describe as like a gritty Jello. Now you can either use it as such, or you can dilute it in a spray bottle with hot water and use it in spray form. Either way, this product has gotten everything I've ever put it on out...and that says a lot! Between Leblanc and SUDS I have been able to remove blood, ink, mascara, automobile grease, cooking oil, mud, pet stains, and tomato from fabrics ranging from clothes, furniture, car upholstery, and bedding, without doing any damage to the fabrics. Now I do sell these items at my store (please contact me if you'd like some!), but that is also only because I have tested each one and found wonderful results. I also carry The Laundress, which is a fabulous laundry care line full of wonderful products including stain fighters, but also products specifically designed for certain fabrics, so you know when you're using them, that you are using the absolute best product for that item.
Sorry this is so long, but this is a topic with no short answers. And hopefully, with this knowledge, you will be able to care for all of the items in your home to the best of your ability.
Now, I usually spend most of my time, when talking about caring for linens, bad-mouthing dry cleaners and how I never-ever-ever want you to take your bedding to a dry cleaner. And for the most part, that is 100% true. I would much rather you wash your items yourself, so that you have complete control on what products are being used on your items, but also what temperatures are being used and how quickly they are being handled. The majority of what I hear about dry cleaners from my clients is how they messed something up and my client needs to replace it. Which isn't always possible and which is exactly why I'd rather you see to your items personally. Dry cleaners tend to use very harsh chemicals and very high temperatures when cleaning the items brought to them, and you're not always guaranteed that your items won't just be thrown in with a bunch of other items and treated all the same. Dry cleaners don't have the time to take each individual piece and read every one's label and follow those careful instructions. This is why a lot of items come back shrunken or discolored. So please really consider the item you need to have cleaned and see if it's possible you can do it yourself, especially now that I've bestowed all of my laundry knowledge on you. There is one exception, however, to my anti-dry cleaners policy, and that is when severe shrinking is a threat. A lot of people out there have a mattelasse on their bed. A mattelasse is a coverlet that is woven into a pattern, not quilted or printed. When there is a 3D type pattern that is not just stitched in, chances are it's a mattelasse. Pronounced "matt lass eh" in case you're wondering. Now, like I said, with the technology out there these days, a lot of fabric mills have now started weaving mattelasses that don't have high shrinkage rates, or they're created using a Poly-Cotton yarn, in which case the Polyester part alleviates the threat of shrinking. However, there are still several mattelasses where the risk of shrinkage is just too high for regular machine washing, and in these cases, I recommend taking the items to a dry cleaner. BUT! There are a few things you must do in order to achieve the wanted results...#1 You MUST let them know up front that you do not want this item to shrink and #2 ask if they have the ability to "block" the item. Blocking is when after washing, the item is placed in a canvas-type structure and stretched to it's current size and kept there until dry, basically not allowing it to draw in as the moisture evaporates. If they do not offer that service, run, don't walk, out of their facility and find one that does, because when it comes to dry cleaning and shrinkage prevention-blocking is the best solution.
So see, I don't think dry cleaners are the enemy, I just would much rather you try to do it yourself so that you can ensure it's done properly depending on the item itself. And I look at it this way, if my stuff is gonna get messed up-I would rather do it myself, than have to be mad at somebody else for doing it!
*If you have any questions, leave them in the comment box below or email me at reveriefinelinens@gmail.com anytime!
Today's topic is something I have to discuss with my clients every single day, then go home and discuss with everyone who lives in my house and gets things dirty-if I could teach the dogs to clean up after themselves I'd be set! A huge problem I run into with my clients is their fear of messing up their nice things. They come in, they buy gorgeous bedding that should last them 10 years, if not longer, then the dog jumps on the bed and leaves muddy footprints behind, or their young one has an accident, or the hubby is working late and leaves ink stains on the sheets...what do you do now?!? Spray a stain fighter on it? Run it under hot water? Put it in the machine? Take it to the cleaners? Throw it out? And what do you do when it's just time for a regular cleaning? If it's really expensive or a really scary stain most immediately choose the "I'll just take it to the cleaners and let them deal with it..." option; but is that always best?
Ok, let's talk. When it comes to regular cleaning, my best advice is to follow the instructions. Every company is required to include a set of instructions on how to properly care for your stuff-whether it's bedding, clothing, curtains...you name it-you'll find a tag sewn in somewhere. Now here's the problem, sometimes it's not written out in plain English, sometimes you just get those symbols that look like something you'd see on a report about crop circles...and what do you do then? Well common sense comes in handy here. With today's technology and love for chemicals, you do not (let me repeat, NOT!) need to use hot water on your linens just to get them clean!!! #1 Half the detergents out there now brag about being "cold water activated!!!" #2 Most of the detergents out there now have enough chemicals in them to kill any germ that dare hang out on your fabrics #3 Your machine will do a very thorough job of washing and rinsing your garments better than any hand-washing could do. Secondly, please don't ever (EVER!) use bleach on your linens. Unless there's a sterilization situation going on, avoid bleach at all costs. It's just not necessary-see 3 points above. Bleach can be very harmful to fabrics, in ways other than just discoloration; it literally breaks down and weakens the fibers...ever wonder where those tiny little holes come from when you've never seen a moth inside your closet?? Or why your sheets are tearing up when you haven't had them but a year or two...now ya know. When it comes to regular washing, it's the same when it comes to eating, everything in moderation...Medium to Low temperatures (in BOTH machines!!!but we'll get to drying later), no need for a "heavy duty" cycle, regular washing will be just fine, and please-oh-please vary the amount of detergent you use based on how much you are actually putting in the machine! This is a HUGE mistake most people are making. If you just go by the amount the little cup tells you-you're already overusing product. Think about it-those companies want you to blow through their products faster so you're having to repurchase sooner. Another downside to overusing detergent is that your fabrics will actually come out dirtier than they were when they went in-the detergent will not only not fully rinse out, when overused, but it will also cling to all the dirt in the water like a magnet. So please be careful when putting detergents and additives into your machine before you run it. If you're only washing one or two things, just use a small cap full or maybe a tablespoon of cleanser.
Now, as far as drying goes-this is where most mistakes occur. If you're like me, well-how I used to be before it became my livelihood, you never touch the temperature dial on your dryer. It stays on "regular" or "high heat" 24/7/365. That is what is going to kill your fabrics. Over drying is basically the laundry equivalent to leaving a pan of cookies in the oven until they turn black; only your sheets won't change colors. When you leave your fabrics in the dryer too long they get split-ends...no that's not just a term used for hair. Over drying causes your fabrics, at a microscopic level, to become brittle and break off. And when this occurs enough that's where tears and holes appear, that's why pilling starts. For those of you unfamiliar with that term, think about your sheets, are there little fuzz balls all over them? That is considered "pilling", when the fibers break off and start to curl, forming those little balls. You see it a lot in sweaters in areas with the most wear-think under the arms. I cannot honestly think of one time I've ever seen the words "Tumble dry high heat" on the tag on any piece of clothing or bedding I've ever owned. What does it always say? Either "Medium heat" or "Low heat" and those words that few understand "Iron if needed"...well why wouldn't ironing be needed?! I'm about to tell you, just let me finish the dryer talk first. It's best to follow the instructions on the tag when it comes to temperature, but if you're really nervous and just too unsure, Low will always be your safest bet. Now if you are worried about the item shrinking, which you should, the even safer bet is to skip the dryer altogether and either lay the item flat or hang it, depending on the size. If it's a piece of clothing judging by weight, size, and shape, sometimes laying it flat on the machine is best and sometimes putting it on a hanger and hanging it on your showercurtain rod is best. For bedding the items are usually much larger and call for a little more creativity. Again, use your best judgement. If you've got a decent sized laundry room and side-by-side machines, stretch it out over the top of the machines to air-dry, or create a fort out of kitchen chairs and stretch it out among those, or once again, head into the bathroom and drape it over your showercurtain rod. Some people choose to air items outside when it comes to drying, I, however, am too nervous and see everything that could go wrong with that picture-my dogs could get a little too happy and grab the item and play tug-of-war with it, I am immediately able to visualize any and all allergens that are floating in the air and being drawn to this piece of fabric like some sort of super magnet, and then there's always birds flying overhead...enough said.
Stains are the one thing that scares people the most. There's always that immediate feeling of "Now it's ruined!" But that's not always the case. The #1 thing to remember is treat it as soon as humanly possible. The less time that stain has to set in, the better. Another thing to consider is the size of the stain; is this something that requires washing the entire piece or will a simple spot-treating do the trick? That is your call. But the instructions are pretty much the same. Start off by wetting the stained area and then add a stain-fighting agent directly onto the spot and work it into the stain; depending on how quickly you're able to treat, you may start seeing results here. Now don't rinse it, just let the item sit with the cleaner on the spot and let it sit-depending on severity for I'd say 5-15 minutes. After letting it sit, if you're going to wash the entire piece, this is when you'd put it in the washer and wash as normal. However, if the whole garment does not require washing, just rinse the affected area and let air dry. Now you may be asking yourself, "That's it?!" But for me, it is. Those are the only steps I have to take to get my stains out. If the same isn't for you; you might want to take a look at what products you are using. Now my arsenal of cleaning products may be a little different than yours, but I would highly recommend looking into getting yourself the items that I use. First and foremost, I use Leblanc Linen Wash on just about everything. Not only is it a fabulous detergent, but it is an incredible stain remover. For right there, on the spot, as soon as it happens stains, Leblanc always manages to do the trick...including my latest incident where I was going to take a bite of chocolate ice cream just as my dog jumped up on the couch to ask for a bite (which she didn't get), causing me to drop it down the front of my brand new white shirt (the reason she didn't get a bite!). I just treated it immediately and without even having to throw it in the washer, the stain came out. For older stains, as well as items that can't be thrown in the washing machine, when Leblanc doesn't quite cut it, I also use a product called SUDS. SUDS comes in a consistency I can only describe as like a gritty Jello. Now you can either use it as such, or you can dilute it in a spray bottle with hot water and use it in spray form. Either way, this product has gotten everything I've ever put it on out...and that says a lot! Between Leblanc and SUDS I have been able to remove blood, ink, mascara, automobile grease, cooking oil, mud, pet stains, and tomato from fabrics ranging from clothes, furniture, car upholstery, and bedding, without doing any damage to the fabrics. Now I do sell these items at my store (please contact me if you'd like some!), but that is also only because I have tested each one and found wonderful results. I also carry The Laundress, which is a fabulous laundry care line full of wonderful products including stain fighters, but also products specifically designed for certain fabrics, so you know when you're using them, that you are using the absolute best product for that item.
Sorry this is so long, but this is a topic with no short answers. And hopefully, with this knowledge, you will be able to care for all of the items in your home to the best of your ability.
Now, I usually spend most of my time, when talking about caring for linens, bad-mouthing dry cleaners and how I never-ever-ever want you to take your bedding to a dry cleaner. And for the most part, that is 100% true. I would much rather you wash your items yourself, so that you have complete control on what products are being used on your items, but also what temperatures are being used and how quickly they are being handled. The majority of what I hear about dry cleaners from my clients is how they messed something up and my client needs to replace it. Which isn't always possible and which is exactly why I'd rather you see to your items personally. Dry cleaners tend to use very harsh chemicals and very high temperatures when cleaning the items brought to them, and you're not always guaranteed that your items won't just be thrown in with a bunch of other items and treated all the same. Dry cleaners don't have the time to take each individual piece and read every one's label and follow those careful instructions. This is why a lot of items come back shrunken or discolored. So please really consider the item you need to have cleaned and see if it's possible you can do it yourself, especially now that I've bestowed all of my laundry knowledge on you. There is one exception, however, to my anti-dry cleaners policy, and that is when severe shrinking is a threat. A lot of people out there have a mattelasse on their bed. A mattelasse is a coverlet that is woven into a pattern, not quilted or printed. When there is a 3D type pattern that is not just stitched in, chances are it's a mattelasse. Pronounced "matt lass eh" in case you're wondering. Now, like I said, with the technology out there these days, a lot of fabric mills have now started weaving mattelasses that don't have high shrinkage rates, or they're created using a Poly-Cotton yarn, in which case the Polyester part alleviates the threat of shrinking. However, there are still several mattelasses where the risk of shrinkage is just too high for regular machine washing, and in these cases, I recommend taking the items to a dry cleaner. BUT! There are a few things you must do in order to achieve the wanted results...#1 You MUST let them know up front that you do not want this item to shrink and #2 ask if they have the ability to "block" the item. Blocking is when after washing, the item is placed in a canvas-type structure and stretched to it's current size and kept there until dry, basically not allowing it to draw in as the moisture evaporates. If they do not offer that service, run, don't walk, out of their facility and find one that does, because when it comes to dry cleaning and shrinkage prevention-blocking is the best solution.
So see, I don't think dry cleaners are the enemy, I just would much rather you try to do it yourself so that you can ensure it's done properly depending on the item itself. And I look at it this way, if my stuff is gonna get messed up-I would rather do it myself, than have to be mad at somebody else for doing it!
*If you have any questions, leave them in the comment box below or email me at reveriefinelinens@gmail.com anytime!
Thursday, February 9, 2012
What Sheets Do I Like?
When it comes to sheets, I get a ton of questions. One of which I get more often than others once I start talking about what's out there..."Well what's the difference?" In the world of sheets, you're going to find a ton of choices-which can be a good thing or a bad thing, if you don't know what to look for. Several factors go into the different options for sheets-none seem to make as much of a difference as the type of weave. The weave really determines how the sheets are going to feel to you. The three most popular and most often seen weaves are percale, sateen, and jacquard.
I'll start with Percale. According to Sferra, one of my biggest and best-selling brands, "Percale is a plain weave using a one-over, one-under structure." Think way back to elementary school Art Class when your teacher had you cut out tons of paper strips and you had to weave them together. The one-over, one-under style of weaving leaves you with a finished product similar to a checkerboard table, where you see an even amount of both colors. In the fabric world, this leaves you with a finished product that has a matte finish, and a crisp feel similar to that of a men's dress shirt. I have found that the tighter weave does cause Percale to wrinkle more easily than Sateen, causing ironing to become more necessary to keep a smooth appearance. Here's an image from Sferra of a Percale weave up close:
I'll start with Percale. According to Sferra, one of my biggest and best-selling brands, "Percale is a plain weave using a one-over, one-under structure." Think way back to elementary school Art Class when your teacher had you cut out tons of paper strips and you had to weave them together. The one-over, one-under style of weaving leaves you with a finished product similar to a checkerboard table, where you see an even amount of both colors. In the fabric world, this leaves you with a finished product that has a matte finish, and a crisp feel similar to that of a men's dress shirt. I have found that the tighter weave does cause Percale to wrinkle more easily than Sateen, causing ironing to become more necessary to keep a smooth appearance. Here's an image from Sferra of a Percale weave up close:
Now a Sateen weave, according to Sferra, "Places more threads on the surface, using a four-over, one-under structure." In doing so, this gives you a larger area of one fiber, which creates a smoother surface leaving the fabric with a softer feel as well as with a hint of a sheen. In my store, Sateen tends to be the favorite. This is the type of sheet I, myself, usually sleep with due to it's softer, smoother feel. In washing the Sateen fabric, sheen may be lost; to regain, all that is necessary is to run a warm iron over the fabric. Here is an up close image of a Sateen weave, courtesy of Sferra:
Now let's discuss Jacquard weaves. This is real simple...Jacquard=pattern. Whenever you see fabric of any kind with a pattern to it, and I don't mean different colors creating a design, I actually mean when it's woven into a pattern-this is a Jacquard. The easiest example of this one is to just think of a striped sheet. Everybody at some point in their life has had a tone-on-tone striped set of sheets. This is where the entire sheet is all one color-and yes you will see a slight variation in color, but that is just the threads going in different directions. Something to keep in mind is that the more intricate the design, the more likely it's going to affect the feel of your sheets. Most patterns, however, you will never even feel. When it comes to Jacquard sheeting, I don't see too many options, and let me explain why-it costs more. To weave a pattern into fabric you either need a person or a machine to do so-and it takes a lot more skill and work to weave a pattern than it does a solid. And when you really get down to it, how much of your sheets do you REALLY see?? So when it comes to pattern, I usually say just save the pattern for the top of the bed and just go simple on your sheets. Here's an example of Jacquard sheeting (see the fern leaves??) from one of my other lines, Scandia Home:
One more weave type I'm going to throw in as a little extra piece of knowledge (just cuz I like you) is the Twill weave. I don't see Twill in bedding too much. Sferra just introduced their line of Twill duvet covers and sheets, MacKenzie, last season. A twill weave creates diagonal lines. As Sferra puts it, "this is done by passing the weft thread (the horizontal one) over one or more warp threads (the vertical one) and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a 'step' or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern." That may sound a little confusing, but this again is something most of us have done at some point when making friendship bracelets-or when using those thin plastic strips we all made keychains with! Another and probably the most well-known example of a twill weave is Denim. **Look REALLY close at your jeans the next time you're wearing them and see if you can spot the diagonal lines. Twill is also used a lot in upholstery fabric for it's softness and durability (the image of a khaki-colored sofa at my mom's lakehouse comes to mind). Here is an image of a twill weave up close for you:
Hopefully you now know WAY more than you ever thought you would about the different types of sheets out there. Now go out into the world shopping for sheets feeling a little more powerful because of the new knowledge you've got under your belt.
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Loving Your Linen Closet
Hi there. Today's tips are ones that I found in a VERY helpful "How To" while casually flipping through a recent issue of Good Housekeeping. Now, as I promised, here is all of the information for you to track down this article if you'd like to read more and for me to give credit where credit is due, seeing as how these tips are not my own but ones I found and wanted to share with you. This is from Feb 2012's Good Housekeeping CMG08345 Vol 254 No.2
Now for the good stuff, a question that I'm often asked is "What do you recommend doing with my sheets when I'm not using them?" This article that I came across took that question and answers not only the sheet portion but also throws in tips for towels and a little organization as well.
"Start at the top. Put clean out-of-season covers out of sight on the top shelf. But don't stash them in their original plastic packaging-it prevents the fabric from "breathing" and can lead to mildew. Just fold, or cinch in a cotton or mesh drawstring laundry bag to keep them tidy without trapping moisture.
Straighten out the shelves. Try clip-on shelf dividers to keep stacks from toppling; bins to hold overflow toiletries or toilet paper; and adhesive labels for shelf edges. To make linen piles even less jumble-prone, here's how to fold:
Towels GHRI's linen gurus fold theirs into thirds. Why? They fit better in the closet and look nicer when put out. Organize by set rather than by type, so they'll be grab-and-go. (Place washcloths flat on top or folded in a bin to the side so they won't get lost.)
Sheets Place the flat and fitted ones, folded, inside the pillowcases to save space. To keep sets' sizes straight, color-code the tags with a permanent marker dot and group accordingly as they come out of the wash.
What to purge when it comes to towels and sheets. On laundry day, take a hard look at what's left in the linen closet (and may have been lingering for years). Then repurpose it as rags or press cloths, stash in the car for padding cargo or cleaning spills, or donate to an animal shelter for use as pet bedding."
I really loved this little "How To" article because in addition to some great organizational tips, it also urges you to declutter while you're at it. Also, without meaning to, they're stressing the importance of having more than one set of sheets per bed. Only having and using one set of sheets will not only wear your sheets out much faster, but it can also leave you in a huge lurch when and if something happens to your top or bottom sheet. What I usually recommend is having at least one extra set of sheets and alternate between them every time you wash your bedding. This will allow at least a week or two of "rest" for the fabric from wear and tear. Some people change their entire bedding seasonally, which allows your linens even more "rest" between uses.
Thanks for reading, and remember to "comment" or email me any time with any questions you may have regarding your linens.
Now for the good stuff, a question that I'm often asked is "What do you recommend doing with my sheets when I'm not using them?" This article that I came across took that question and answers not only the sheet portion but also throws in tips for towels and a little organization as well.
"Start at the top. Put clean out-of-season covers out of sight on the top shelf. But don't stash them in their original plastic packaging-it prevents the fabric from "breathing" and can lead to mildew. Just fold, or cinch in a cotton or mesh drawstring laundry bag to keep them tidy without trapping moisture.
Straighten out the shelves. Try clip-on shelf dividers to keep stacks from toppling; bins to hold overflow toiletries or toilet paper; and adhesive labels for shelf edges. To make linen piles even less jumble-prone, here's how to fold:
Towels GHRI's linen gurus fold theirs into thirds. Why? They fit better in the closet and look nicer when put out. Organize by set rather than by type, so they'll be grab-and-go. (Place washcloths flat on top or folded in a bin to the side so they won't get lost.)
Sheets Place the flat and fitted ones, folded, inside the pillowcases to save space. To keep sets' sizes straight, color-code the tags with a permanent marker dot and group accordingly as they come out of the wash.
What to purge when it comes to towels and sheets. On laundry day, take a hard look at what's left in the linen closet (and may have been lingering for years). Then repurpose it as rags or press cloths, stash in the car for padding cargo or cleaning spills, or donate to an animal shelter for use as pet bedding."
I really loved this little "How To" article because in addition to some great organizational tips, it also urges you to declutter while you're at it. Also, without meaning to, they're stressing the importance of having more than one set of sheets per bed. Only having and using one set of sheets will not only wear your sheets out much faster, but it can also leave you in a huge lurch when and if something happens to your top or bottom sheet. What I usually recommend is having at least one extra set of sheets and alternate between them every time you wash your bedding. This will allow at least a week or two of "rest" for the fabric from wear and tear. Some people change their entire bedding seasonally, which allows your linens even more "rest" between uses.
Thanks for reading, and remember to "comment" or email me any time with any questions you may have regarding your linens.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Welcome to Our Blog!
Hello! This is my first blogging experience, so please bear with me. You will more than likely see several format, font, and even color changes in the next few posts, but it's just me learning and adjusting as I go along.
The purpose of my blog is to provide you with as much information as possible about bedding, linens, with maybe even a little home decorating thrown in too. Many of my vendors provide me with tons of information about their products that I feel is important to pass along to you, the consumer. Occasionally, posts might be something that I saw somewhere and thought would be good to share. If ever posts are coming from another source, you can bet that I will absolutely give credit where credit is due. I'm not here to claim anyone else's tricks of the trade; just want to provide you with as much helpful information as I possibly can. Some posts will be things you may already know, some may be things you've always been curious about but never thought to ask, and some may be things you never thought of before, but hopefully you will find them all both interesting and useful. Keep in mind, I'm always open for suggestions on topics. So, if there's ever a question you're dying to ask or something that you heard somewhere and want to know if it's true, or if you're looking for tips or advice-please don't hesitate to ask; that's what I'm here for. You can either post a comment after one of my blog posts or you can send a private email to reveriefinelinens@gmail.com. If yours is a topic I think would be good to share, I will ask if you mind my posting both your question and my response on here to share with others who may have been wondering the same thing.
So, welcome to Random Reveries! I hope you continue to read and enjoy my posts from here on out. Thanks for checking me out and (please) wish me luck!
The purpose of my blog is to provide you with as much information as possible about bedding, linens, with maybe even a little home decorating thrown in too. Many of my vendors provide me with tons of information about their products that I feel is important to pass along to you, the consumer. Occasionally, posts might be something that I saw somewhere and thought would be good to share. If ever posts are coming from another source, you can bet that I will absolutely give credit where credit is due. I'm not here to claim anyone else's tricks of the trade; just want to provide you with as much helpful information as I possibly can. Some posts will be things you may already know, some may be things you've always been curious about but never thought to ask, and some may be things you never thought of before, but hopefully you will find them all both interesting and useful. Keep in mind, I'm always open for suggestions on topics. So, if there's ever a question you're dying to ask or something that you heard somewhere and want to know if it's true, or if you're looking for tips or advice-please don't hesitate to ask; that's what I'm here for. You can either post a comment after one of my blog posts or you can send a private email to reveriefinelinens@gmail.com. If yours is a topic I think would be good to share, I will ask if you mind my posting both your question and my response on here to share with others who may have been wondering the same thing.
So, welcome to Random Reveries! I hope you continue to read and enjoy my posts from here on out. Thanks for checking me out and (please) wish me luck!
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